by Renton
de Alwis
For a
recent article I wrote on tourism for a new magazine, the editors chose to
insert a photograph of a group of tourists riding an elephant with her knee-
deep in water in a lake, in the backdrop of Sigiriya. It must make a good photograph
for visitors to take home, but to me that represents the anti-thesis of what I
wanted to say about tourism in Sri Lanka. I am aware that in Nepal’s Therai,
within the wildlife parks, elephants are used for tourists to view Rhinoceros
in the marshes. They do not use mechanized vehicles and position this activity
as an eco-friendly way of making such observation. Quite contrary to that we
saw how Elephants were paraded on Bangkok’s city streets (now banned), with
them breathing huge doses of CO2 and the cruelty inflicted on them at some of
the elephant parks all around that county.
In Sri
Lanka too we observe them being used in hurtful ways on the beaches at Mt.Lavinia,
Beruwela, Kalutara and the like to earn the fast bucks, often with sponsorship of
the hotels in the areas. To me these majestic creatures away from their own natural
environments, amount to our inflicting cruelty on them. So is over-activity
within our parks and at the annual gatherings, for we impose undue pressure on
their otherwise normal lifestyles. Then there is the human-elephant conflict,
which is raging at accelerated pace in this post conflict development phase.
I do not
have objection to passive viewing of our elephants in the wild, done with least
interference within designated park areas. But it must be done with sensitivity
and with deep sense and understanding of the needs of these majestic animal
friends of ours. Today, I repost this, my November, 2010 article in the ‘Daily
Financial Times, Sri Lanka’ to bring a fresh focus on this issue in our
tourism.
Imagine a presentation on tourism
for Sri Lanka without featuring an elephant or a herd of them in it. They are
everywhere. In the wild, on the beaches, among humans; mostly serving them and when
not getting in conflict with them. We in Sri Lanka indeed have reason to
celebrate their existence among us. There had been over 10,000 of these
majestic species present at the beginning of this century on this very island, a
feature unmatched by any other landmass of this size, where a diversity of
natural habitats and a wide-spectrum of species of animals, birds and other
beings exist.
At national parks the likes
of Yala, Uda Walawe, Wilpattu and Kaudulla, elephants are observed by visitors
on special vehicles often overcrowding them with, scant regard or respect of
the fact that visitors are intruders in the wild-habitats of these inhabitants.
The ‘wild-elephants’ one observes on the
way to the Uda Walawa Park, between the sluice gate and the park entrance,
waiting behind the electric fence to be fed with desserts of bananas and buns by
passing visitors, is but one testimony to the sad-side of the tale of our
elephants even within protected areas.
From July to October ‘The
Gathering’ offers a spectacle at Minneriya, where already too many visitors are
said to be getting too close, to ensuring the wellbeing of the observed.
On our beaches, it is yet another
story. At Arugam Bay and several other coastal areas of the East and the North
West, they roam in the wild and become tourists themselves. Yet, on the West
and the South in the vicinity of beach hotels, elephants in captivity are used
for rides by tourists on soft-sand, toiling hard, most all day. Not at all a
natural phenomenon and an anti-thesis to the conservation mantrum in
tourism of; “take only photographs… leave only footprints”.
In August in their majesty,
yet other domesticated elephants ride for days, some having travelled for weeks
on asphalt roads, to perform traditional ritualistic chores at the pinnacle of
all pageants the Dalada Perehara. Supplementing this annual event are many
other lesser events all over the island, where elephants take center-stage in
pageantry, all year around. In the old days, elephants serving the temples were
revered as sacred and were treated with much respect. Today, most double as
working elephants performing tasks unbecoming of them.
In areas of the Cultural
Triangle such as at Habarana and Dambulla, elephants are made to walk with
tourists riding on their backs on surfaces alien to them, much like they do in several
tourist areas in Thailand. Away from the trajectory of tourist brochures and
attention of tourists, elephants take on a survival battle with humans for the ‘sins’
they commit while seeking food within their lost habitats.
In Africa, it is reported
that about 19,000 elephants are killed each year, mostly for their ivory. Thankfully,
our numbers are nowhere near there, yet given that we only have an estimated 6,000
left with us, and only a few hundred of them are tuskers, our own human
-elephant conflict needs to be dealt with much care and attention.
According to wildlife
officials and other studies, Sri Lanka looses close to 200 of its estimated
total population of 6,000 elephants each year, as a result of the conflict
between the two species. Most deaths are inflicted by angered villagers
shooting or setting deadly-traps for elephants that damage their crops or challenge
human presence.
The Pinnawela Elephant
Orphanage was setup in 1975, to be a quaint purpose-built facility, with the
primary objective of offering a caring foster home for orphaned elephants of
whom, most were babies. It was to release these orphans to the wild, upon their
growth. Today, it has weaned away from that objective and has instead become a
centre for breeding of elephants in captivity.
It was to be the conscience-point of support of caring humans for the
animal in the midst of the then emerging, human-elephant conflict. The transit
home for elephants at Uda Walawa was also set up with the same objective.
Today, the Pinnawela orphanage
has turned to be a bustling tourist attraction where ‘showing the elephants
off’ has overridden the feel, caring hard-work and commitment of those in
charge of the elephants. The recent fiasco of the death of Neelagiri,
supposedly at the hands of an angry mahout is testimony to what can go wrong in
such circumstances. While the incomes earned from tourism can be used to
support even better care for the animals, haphazard development and the ‘dog
eat dog’ type of competition around by restaurateurs, shop-keepers and other
‘fast-buck-earners’ has created an environment, which takes a good portion of
the humane element of the facility away.
What we must remember is
that what visitors to Pinnawela, (both local and foreign) value most, is the
underlying purpose of its caring for the orphaned elephants and not so much the
glitter or the glamour of its surrounds. This will be true of the Uda Walawa
transit facility too.
In the elephant-tourism
story, Sri Lanka can indeed turn a new leaf. We do not need to follow the bad
examples of other countries where respect for animals and caring comes in
lesser proportions than it is here among us.
With a rich backdrop of a
heritage as the country that established the world’s first ever wild life park
by a Royal decree of King Devanampiyatissa as far back as the 3rd
century BC, we could establish our unique selling proposition in the area of
elephant-tourism relationship not as a destination that offers elephant rides but
as one that cares and nurtures its elephants with love and affection. I venture
to propose that such positioning will bring Sri Lanka tourism, much more yield
and benefit than the few dollars earned through inflicting pain on these
majestic yet hapless giants.
I am encouraged that we
have occasion now to shift our focus on wildlife away from that on the land to
that of the oceans. It is a welcome development that upon the end of our
security restrictions on the waters around, we are now able to promote
activities such as whale and dolphin watching. These new ventures should be
thought of as a way to release pressure placed on our elephants and other
wildlife and not merely as another lucrative source of making fast bucks.
As a destination that has
so much in such a small space, Sri Lanka can be compared to one big natural
theme park. We do not need to create superficial experiences or events to stand
tall among other destinations or in competing with them. Our many cultural and
religious festivals/events, village ‘polas’ or trading fairs, traditional craft-villages,
heritage sites, gardens and wild-life parks, virtually un-spoilt serene beaches,
fishing communities and rural lifestyles, all offer unique and exotic sensual
experiences to visitors to this land.
What we need, is to first
get the basics right of these opportunities. These include defining how they
should be managed, ensuring their conservation, facilitating comfortable movement by road/water and air as
may be required, safety of visitors at all locations, provision of facilities
such as toilets and comfort centres, access to good interpretation and
information facilities, quality guiding services, descriptive location signage
in language versions including how visitors are expected to behave, an
environment free of hassle from touts offering socially unacceptable services
and a posse of well-trained service personnel at all levels of operation.
In a recent contribution to a newspaper,
author/activist Aditha Dissanayake wrote “In his life and death may Neelagiri be an ambassador for
all the other orphans like him who are “rescued” from one tragic situation only
to end up in an even more tragic, pseudo-sanctuary. Neelagiri, may your death
pave the way to a better life for your kinsmen. May all that pain have not been
in vain”. I believe that those of you in tourism can be catalytic
in ensuring that Pinnawela or Uda Walawa does not become ‘pseudo-sanctuaries’ as she presented it.
As was said earlier the founder fathers of
the facility intended it to be the conscience-point of support for Sri Lanka in
her sad take on the human-elephant conflict. As Aditha reminded us of Julian Huxley’s words in her
conclusion “We humans define ourselves by the ways in which we treat animals”.
Let those in tourism step in to make good that
defining, joining hands with all caring Sri Lankans.
Elephants at Uda Walawe National Park
A shared Google image